10 best cracks in the hunter
Here’s one for all the perverted, sadists out there (or just those who like crack climbing). The Hunter isn’t known for it’s crack climbing but there are plenty of splitter lines lurking out there ready for your jamming, locking and thrutching pleasure. Here’s our pick for ten of the best, let us know if you find some more we’re always looking to put our hands in something prickly.
Paul’s Peril 14, 25m (Monkey Face, South Face)
Classic fist crack the whole way. It’s a bit of a walk to get around to but when you get there you’re greeted by some of the best jamming in the hunter, no suckering out onto face holds this one either! A nice introduction to cracks, take plenty of big gear, doubles of BD3 & BD4 will be very helpful.
R.S. 17, 45m (Monkey Face, Big Banana Buttress)
This sweet left leaning corner soars into the sky on the left side of the Big Banana Buttress at Monkey Face. Starting off the block the climbing is in your face from the beginning as you layback and smear you way up the overhanging corner. There is great bomber gear the whole way. Some slabby, climbing leads into the cave with a doublt bolt belay, stop here or link the top pitch for 45m of great climbing. Finish up by pulling the little roof and finger locking your way up the bottomless corner.
Bereska 19, 18m (Monkey Face, Turkey Walls)
CLASSIC! Face climbing on wires up to a bolt in the middle of the wall. You get a bit of rest before blasting up the thin crack with finger locks, pinching the chockstone and latching the wobbly flake, bomber gear under the roof. Then mantle the slopey top out. Three stars.
Profanity 21, 14m (Monkey Face, Turkey Walls)
Harder than it looks, has a habit of spitting people in the last metre. Great off fingers jamming, don’t pike out and layback!
Sharks fin 21, 50m (The Zawn, North Wall Back End)
Stemming perfection. Usually done in two pitches, the first contains some engaging climbing which is harder than it looks. Then get psyched for the best fingerlocking, laybacking and stemming in the hunter, up a beautiful open book corner. Well you could do that if you were allowed to climb here, unfortunately climbing is banned here so we will have to admire photos of an earlier time when councils and national parks were oblivious to climbing.
Torn 21, (The Slot)
Thin laybacking finger crack just above the crashing waves. Head here on a calm ocean day and make sure you’re confident leading. Gear can be tricky but it’s a cracking route.
Look mum no cams 23, 20m (Bulahdelah, No cams wall)
Undercling enduro classic. Sneak in some hand jams and kneebars to reduce the pump and give this climb a reason to be on this list. Uber classic, do it on gear for hardman status.
Pirahna Pussy 18, 20m (The Zawn, South Wall)
As prickly as it sounds, tape up or bring crack gloves, and BIG gear. The obvious arching crack on the south wall of the Zawn. DON’T CLIMB HERE, yep this is banned too, sorry, just admire from a far.
Water Hammer, 21, 8m (Fisherman’s Bay Deep Water Solo)
The Hunter’s premiere deep water solo crack climb. Start in the water and hand jam to glory, wet, chalk-less, and no doubt all cut up.
Water Hammer is out of view on the wall on the left of the above photo, it faces the climber.
Sadistic Tendencies 23, 25m (Rope Road)
Splitter hand crack for the first thirds which opens into a grovelling offwidth to gain the dirty chockstone and prepare to launch. Dyno into a hand jam and finish up rewarding hand jams to a NEW anchor on the left.