by  in Pulse Climbing

Off Width Climbing – Sadistic Tendencies

It takes some Sadistic Tendencies to climb off width cracks. As well as some creative climbing to climb this new unclimbed Gem call Sadistic Tendencies 23 ish.

After reading about some of the local cracks in the Pulse’s Blog, we got psyched to search for some more gems around the place. 

Rope road was the logical place to start.

It started with fair hand sized jams which lead to an interest off width section. Deep in the back a couple of # 2 cams fitted thankfully. then the giant # 6 was placed at the top. After I dislodge my helmet that got stuck. And escaped the off width section a few hand jams were used to get to a block chocked in the crack. I had rapped down earlier to clean this a little. Knowing there was a large gap in usable size crack I had commit to jamming my left foot in the crack, then Gaston the right hand before lunging up dynamically for a high hand jam. Ha. Dynoing for a hand jam is not something you do every day. One of the most committed moves I’ve had to do.

Sadistic Tendencies 23ish  at Rope Roads Watagans National Park

 

Another new climb that was ascended was the Shuffler 22 Mo. The M0 stands for one point of rest. The climber needed more M0 Jo to complete the climb using free methods.

15th June 2013 JP using a Chicken wing technique on The Shuffler 22M0 rope road

The shuffler had nothing less than # 3 camalot size cams placements. so the # 4.5 and #6 had to be used sparingly. Hence the Cams had to be shuffled up the crack as the climber Shuffled up as well.

JP Listening to what the Rock is trying to tell him. "Shuffle up" it said,"Shuffle up."

 

After allot of close bonding moments with the dynamic rock. After I said that I had enough, 3 or 4 times. I still kept struggling up. Shuffle up 1.5 meters then slide back down 1.6 m back up back down. Shuffle up slide down.

Somewhere below the trusty #6 cam would stop me from hitting the ground.

The rock at Rope Road is not the best. And then some. Is consists of mostly conglomerate. Giving the effect that you are trying to climb up a parallel chimney with ball bearings on each side.

Crack climbing is no stroll, no walk in the park it require effort. You have to Fight for the cracks in life. The cracks that let the light into the soul.

Pain and hardship give light and perspective. Looking back at the scars, feeling the grasses, gives memories realism. Did that really happen? Looking at my hands “yes! that’s right. That’s was quit a fight. Ha.”

Ours is not to answer the reason why?

Its not safe. Being safe is closer to perfection. Finding out about ourselves

After this day of enlightened experience I could see why these obvious crack lines were left for future twisted climbers. Only climbers that are willing to commit that extra mile. with the new technology of big Cams and the desire for different climbing.

There is no room for yuppie sport climbers on that side of the ridge line at Rope Road. ( The Shady Side, The darker side.)

Challenging this sort of climbing does help the evolution of man kind. If no light gets in from cracks See what happens

 

Smeegle placeing a SLCD. Picture From Argentina.

 

 Life is just one adventure after another. Unless you patch up the cracks and then it becomes just one computer entry after another.

jmanpiperOff Width Climbing – Sadistic Tendencies