We have been keeping in touch with local climber Matt Bunn who has just finished a successful expedition in the fjords of Greenland. Here is a little excerpt from a recent email:
“So I made 3 first ascents. The first was an 800m 17, quite a few nice pitches. Had an unplanned ‘shivvy’ (or a bivy that was too cold to do any sleeping) during the descent, but got to lay there watching the northern lights.
The second ascent was a horror show. We opted to head up a gully as a method of gaining access to a ridge that would bring us to the highest peak of the cirque. When we got in it it became death scrambling. I mean death scrambling, by far one of the most stupidly terrifying things I have ever done. Because it was loose choss we could not rope up or rappel back down. When we got to the col at the top of it we decided we would not return back down it. This meant we effectively had to do a traverse of 4 unclimbed summits in order to reach the most logical descent position. With food for only a day and half with us, if we went after the peak we went up there for we would have had at least 3, if not 4 bivys and we only had food for 2. Most of it was loose 4th class scrambling with the odd low to mid 5th section. The best pitch of the route was one I had to climb to free out ropes when they jammed in a rappel. Took us about 53 hours.
The third ascent was a stellar route, possibly one of the best I have ever climbed. A 450m 19. Sustained and on good rock. Brilliant and aesthetic, bringing us to the top of another unclimbed peak. If you took this route and put it in the bugs or something it would become a total classic. Yet to name the route, but it will probably have something to do with Tupilaks (look it up, a fucked up Innuit concept).I got to lead almost every one of the 10 pitches too.
I could easily go back to Greenland, there is so much to be climbed!
Hope all is well down under! “